Defaix is a true believer in holding back his racy and energetic Chablis until the wine has settled into itself in the way he envisions it. This 2006 is a current release from the winery, it hasn’t been sitting around somewhere waiting to be discovered, it’s fresh and super ready now. Super mineral, stony aromas and flavors along with a deep nuttiness. Still teaming with life but developed and amazingly complex. Simply prepared seafoods and chicken dishes are perfect here, but so is nerding out with a couple glasses, watching the layers unfold.