Catherine-Dhoye-Deret took over winemaking duties from her father in 1990 and ever since, the family estate (founded in 1712) has been producing soulful wines ever since. Her winery is carved out of the tuffeaux soil underneath her Le Coteau vineyard, and you can see roots protruding from the limestone ceiling dripping water. She never chapitilizes. Instead, she crushes her grapes, then allows the wine to be made naturally. That's why her dry wines have such an unforced aspect about them. The just-released 2016 Sec is a classic. Clean, with a hint of honey, round on the palate and a persistent finish.