When you stand in Goisot's nearly 900 year old cellar near the northernmost part of Burgundy, you begin to realize that wine has been made here every vintage since medieval times. The estate is in Saint-Bris, known for rare Burgundian Sauvignon Blanc, but Goisot also produces one of the most appealing of all Aligotés. Called "poor man's Burgundy", Aligoté doesn't have the weight or the majesty of Chardonnay, but it can offer a simpler, compelling take on dry white wine. Goisot's Aligoté reveals a little matchstick in the nose which quickly blows off with a little swirling. In the mouth there is a full, bracing minerality, not as severe as Muscadet, and an intriguing aroma and flavor component, perhaps sandalwood.