Over the years, we've offered the Silvaners of the traditionalist Wirsching estate for their wines' purity and concentration. (And we also love the onion-shaped vessel called bocksbeutel.) Even the entry-level wines have great quality. But when you reach the level of the estate's most elite vineyard Julius Echter Berg, you transcend mere wine to reach rarified air. The 2015 is a ripe wine, reflecting the generous vintage, and its fruit is attractive and well structured. Expensive, we realize, but it's Silvaner at its finest expression. Importer Rudi Wiest loves serving Franken Silvaner with sashimi.