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Review Lisini 2017 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany

Lisini 2017 Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany

$64.99
($64.99 Incl. tax)
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Winemaker Notes: Deep ruby red that is refined over the years to almost bright orange. The nose is slightly ethereal with extraordinary elegance with hints of undergrowth, tobacco, violet and vanilla; dry flavor, but at the same time soft, full and harmon
Description

Winemaker Notes

The bouquet is intense and complex: fruit-forward, spicy and ethereal with notes of red berries, black cherry, sweet and warm spices and leather. Warm, harmonious and well balanced with firm tannins and a long finish.

Critical Acclaim

96 pts Wine Enthusiast:  Delicious and full-bodied, this offers aromas of pine forest, spiced plum, leather and fragrant purple flowers. On the enveloping palate, noble tannins support ripe Morello cherry, raspberry jam and baking spice before a licorice close.
 
94 pts Decanter: Located in the southern reaches of the Montalcino zone, near Sant’Angelo in Colle, Lisini is one of the last in the area to harvest. The wines are full-figured, sumptuous and densely packed yet remain wondrously light on their feet. The 2017, which was harvested between the end of September and beginning of October, is no exception. Dripping with ripe cherries and plums, it is a seductive, rather fruit-driven wine shored up by luscious acidity. Clayey tannins wrap around the palate with an iron grip and just a hint of dryness is absorbed by plush, pulpy fruit. This is hard to resist now. 
 

About the producer

There are few other estates in Montalcino with roots as deep as Lisini. The Lisini-Clementi family has owned lands in Montalcino since the sixteenth century, and the historic tower and loggia on the property has its beginnings in the 1300s. The first vines were planted here in the 1930s, well before the international craze for the area’s wines. And Lisini wasn’t just one of the founding members of the consorzio di Brunello in the 1967: The late Elina Lisini, the head of the family until her passing in 2009 was its first and only female president in 1970! Today, the estate totals roughly 150 hectares that surround the ancient farmhouse and winery, and brothers Carlo and Lorenzo, along with cousin Ludovica, continue the traditions of their forebearers. This includes not just the production of wine—which is based entirely on the noble sangiovese grape—but also of olive oil. Their location, in the hills surrounding Sant’Angelo in Colle, in the Southwest corner of Montalcino, are particularly favorable to the cultivation of both sangiovese and olives. Their 20 or so hectares of vineyards are at an average elevation of 350 meters above sea level, and open to the south, towards the Maremma area of Tuscany, making them drier and more ventilated than other locations more landlocked than Lisini.

With the history of the Lisini family running so deep in Montalcino, the current regime saw no other way to produce their wines other than with respect for tradition. This means that only sangiovese is grown, fermentations take place in glass lined cement tanks, and all wines age in large Slavonian oak casks. The winemaking at the estate was guided starting in the 1980s for many years by Franco Bernabei (of Felsina and Fontodi fame) who then trained the current staff enologist Filippo Paoletti. The late Giulio Gambelli (the original “sangiovesista”, responsible for many years at Biondi Santi and Soldera, and the creator of Le Pergole Torte), also collaborated with the Lisinis for a while, and current winemaker Filippo counts both of these as important inspirations and influences on his work.

The Wine Country.
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