Thierry Germain has a bit of a cult following in the Loire, mostly for his Cabernet Franc from the village of Saumur-Champigny but it was this lightning bolt of a white wine that set my heart aflame. This lusty and lit up Chenin Blanc is densely packed with stone fruits, wild herbs, warm cooking spices and a flourish of citrus rind. The wicked blast of vibrating acidity seems to coil around the harvest fruited wine in the sexiest way. I want scallops. I want white fishes. I want another bottle.