Blard & Fils 2020 Arbin Mondeuse Noire, France

The Blard winery is actually in the Apremont region of France but they are leasing some 50 year old Mondeuse vines in Arbin. Mondeuse is a local variety that might be best described as a cross between Pinot Noir and Gamay, with a touch more tannin depending on who is making it. This offering is grown in clay and limestone soils and there is a pronounced iron-rich mineral note on the nose, along with red fruit and a little green note. Somewhat lacy on the palate but there is still some grip. Loves pork, roasted mushrooms, game and cured meats.

This wine has a good news/bad news/good news story.  The 2000 vintage is a wonderful and elegant follow-up to the smashingly good 2019.  

I visited Blard & Fils on my recent trip to France for the express purpose of meeting the people who produced their fabulous 2019 Mondeuse.  What I was alarmed to discover—the bad news—is the family is no longer cultivating Mondeuse, instead concentrating on Pinot Noir in addition to its white wines and bubbly.  No more Mondeuse!  Mon Dieu!  

And now some good news.  Although the winery was sold out of Mondeuse, our local distributor had 5 cases of 2020 in their warehouse.  After sampling a bottle, we took all 5.  This vintage—the last of its kind—is beguiling, reminding me at first of a cru Beaujolais with a more solid core and a very satisfying finish.  It is a wine you’ll be happy you discovered, and sad that it is the last of a breed.  Enjoy it while it lasts.—Randy Kemner