Altesino 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Tuscany

98 pts Wine Spectator: This is fluid and starts out supple, evoking cherry, plum and forest floor flavors, with flashes of tar and pine. The taut, driving structure, especially its bracing acidity, propels this red to the superlong aftertaste. Dense, resonant tannins define the finish, which feels compact now despite the unabashed length.

94 pts James Suckling: A very classic and telltale Montalcino. The subtle nose shows smoky woodland and forest-floor aromas allied to dried cherries and raspberries, dried roses and earthy minerality. The full-bodied palate has velvety tannins, a chalky finish, refreshing acidity and a tight, eminently floral finish. Drinkable now but best from 2028 or 2029.

94 pts Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: Like many other producers in the appellation, Altesino jumped forward from the 2017 Riserva directly to this vintage. The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows more density and overall fruit weight. The wine also reveals thick textural heft and, ultimately, more dark fruit sweetness. It gives us a much bigger and richer interpretation of Sangiovese.