A Tale of Two Rhône Valleys

The first wine I ever drank was in 1970.  The label read Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but I had no clue what it was made of or where, exactly, it came from.  Before I started distributing Kermit Lynch Imports two decades later all I really knew about “Rhône” varieties were the few California Syrahs and Grenache roses I'd drunk, and very little about the region itself.

When I first visited France’s Rhône Valley in January 1992, it was a revelation.  I witnessed the rocky vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Vacqueyras and Gigondas in the southern Rhône and the dramatic hillsides of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie in the northern Rhône.  After exploring those wines from bottle and barrel, I really had my first real sense of what “Rhône Wine” was all about.

I was gobsmacked by my first encounter with the exotic perfume (blueberries, violets) of Côte-Rôtie from barrel.  It was the most thrilling discovery from my two-week importer tour which also included the powerhouse wine regions of Burgundy, Champagne, and Alsace.

I'm certain that many wine consumers are just like I was--familiar with a few names, but unsure of much else about the Rhône Valley.  Let me try to briefly shed some light on the subject.

Two Separate Rhônes, Two Climates, Two Different Wines

To get a handle on Rhône Valley wines, we must look at the map, because as you know, most traditional European wines are labeled not by variety, but by their geographic origins, with approved grape varieties strictly controlled by their government agencies.

THE NORTHERN RHÔNE VALLEY

On the northern part of the wine map, you’ll see a narrow vertical strip of land along the Rhône River where the Northern Rhône appellations (growing regions) are located. This region has a distinct continental climate; it actually snowed on us in January 1992.  

Some of the sights of the Northern Rhône are stunning.  I still lose my breath whenever I stand at the foot of Hermitage hill and the incredibly steep, ancient hillsides of Côte-Rôtie.

Northern Rhône appellations are Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, Cornas, Crozes-Hermitage, Saint-Joseph, and the tiny white wine regions Condrieu, Chateau Grillet and Saint-Peray.  You may find some northern Rhône Cotes du Rhône and some outliers with names like Syrah Collines Rhodaniennes.

The Northern Rhône is mostly red wine country, and just 10% of the wine produced there is white, mostly blends.  By law, only Syrah can be used for Northern Rhône's red wines and only Marsanne and Roussanne can be used for most of Northern Rhône's whites. A small amount of the white Viognier is grown at the tip-top of the region in Condrieu and Chateau Grillet, and a bit that can be co-fermented with Syrah in Côte-Rôtie.

The major appellations of the Northern Rhône can be pricy because they are small regions and the demand is high. There are values, however, and when made by gifted vignerons, Syrahs grown outside the main appellations can provide valuable introductions to the wines of the area.  I recommend starting with bottles labeled Syrah, Saint Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage to get a sense of what is in store for you before committing to loftier bottles.  

Remember, then, the Northern Rhône is a small region where Syrah is king and just 10% of the production is made up of Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier.  

THE SOUTHERN RHÔNE VALLEY 

The Mediterranean climate of the Southern Rhône Valley, which on the map looks like a large triangle straddling both sides of the Rhône River, and the wines made there are much different than those of the north.  The wines are almost always blended, and like the north, 90% red, mostly dominated by Grenache Noir and supplemented mainly with Syrah, Mourvedre and a handful of others.  The approved white varieties are also mainly in blends are from Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Roussanne and others.  

The king of the Southern Rhône is Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which has a remarkable 13 varieties approved for its blends, five white varieties and eight red. It is permissible to blend a bit of white wine varieties into the red Chateauneuf, and if you can get your hands on a rare white Chateauneuf-du Pape, you will discover a complex wine like few others. There are a tiny handful of wines in the Southern Rhône that will bottle a single variety wine.

When I first had a opportunity to walk the craggy Chateauneuf-du-Pape vineyards of Vieux Telegraphe, the terrain looked like a river wash with rounded boulders providing reflective heat from the sun and gnarly old vines poking through.  Here, the cliche that vines need to struggle to provide the best grapes has never been truer.

Because Chateauneuf-du-Pape is the great appellation of the region, prices of their most celebrated estates can go to triple digits, but impressive versions can be found in the $45 to $70 range. 

In the nearby villages of Vacqueyras and Gigondas, stately, full bodied red wines (most are now over 14% abv) can rival some Chateauneufs usually at less cost.  Other appellations, like Costieres de Nimes, Sablet, Rasteau, Cairanne, Beaumes-de-Venise and Cotes-du-Rhône provide the same types of blends as Chateauneuf du Pape, many at much more reasonable prices, and when made by good estates, are surprisingly satisfying.

The Southern Rhône region of Tavel is France’s only appellation that produces rosé wine exclusively, and they are fuller-bodied than most of the aperitif-worthy roses of Provence. 

The small village of Beaumes-de-Venise features a local specialty, the enchanting, aromatic fortified sweet wine Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise which we have featured at The Wine Country for going on thirty years.

Getting to know the dramatic differences between the wines of the Northern Rhône and the wines of the Southern Rhône are the key to unlocking the mysteries of the Rhône Valley.  I encourage all our customers to experiment with each of the two “Rhônes”, beginning with the bargains of each and building to the elite appellations.

This just may open up a whole new world of wine appreciation for you, as it did for me.