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03 Jun 2022 | Jeremy Dugan

CLAUS PREISINGER: THE MAN AND THE WINERY

Since 2002 Claus Perisinger has been making wine on the North Shore of Lake Neusidel in the appellation of Burgenland in the region of Weinland in the country of Austria. By 2006 he had converted the vineyards and winery to Biodynamic production and is Respekt Biodyn certified. Biodynamic wine making seems to have been made for someone like Claus, he sees the wines he makes as his way of describing nature. To him adding a yeast strain, using new oak or adding sulfur would be him trying to influence not only the wine but nature as well. To Claus nature is so important to his wine making process he puts the type of soil the vines were grown in on his labels when possible.

With such a minimalist approach to wine making there is no surprise that Claus' labels are as simplistic as they are. A quick scribble of his signature in the center and in the corner the name of the winery, the soil type and on single varietal wines, the name of the grape used.  Even his website screams minimalist: the front screen (and only screen) ask you "Any Questions?" and if you click on that it sends you a link to his email address. And that is the entire website! And don't take these comments about simplicity as a way to define the wines from Preisinger, the wines themselves are the exact opposite. The three wines were carry from Claus all have depth and life to them that evolves during your drinking experience. So I invite you all to read up on these wines we now carry from Claus Preisinger and pick one, two or maybe all three and have your own experiences. 

Claus Preisinger Blaufrankisch Kalkstein.

This is a very savory red wine and is aged for 8 months in neutral oak. Given that the vines these Blaufrankisch grapes were grown on were in limestone soil, the wine is named after the Austrian word for limestone "Kalkstein". Rich dark plums lead to notes of soft white pepper and vegetal green characteristics. There is a very distinct flavor profile that is earthy but also has some salinity, the taste reminds me of the smell of volcanic rock. Soft black olive on the finish makes a savory and slight briny finish.

Claus Preisinger Kalkundkiesel Rouge.

Even split of Blaufrankisch and Pinot Noir this wine is aged for 8 months in neutral oak. The vines for these grapes grew in both limestone and gravel soil so Claus mashed up the two words and has labeled this wine "Kalkundkiesel". Bright fruit up front; raspberries, pluots and cranapples all have a refreshing balance of fruit and acidity. While the acidity fades away a bit, the fruit stays on the palate and lingers nicely.

Claus Preisinger Heideboden.

A blend of Zweigelt (50%), Blaufrankisch (30%) and Merlot (20%) this wine spends 14 months in used French oak before being bottled. These grapes come from 45 year old vines grown in loam soils. Heideboden means "Heather Ground". Roasted dark fruit up front coats the palate before being joined by notes of rose petals which brings a lighter profile to the taste buds. Soft oak spice serves as tannic structure to subdue the roasted fruit and rose petals mentioned earlier. Soft pluot fruit on the finish creates a brighter finish than expected.

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