Falling in Love with White Burgundy
Arguments can be made that the greatest white wines in the world are made from wine grapes Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, or Pinot Gris. All can make excellent wines, and some have the ability to age decades.
But if I were hard pressed to pick a white wine variety that stands above all else, it would have to be Chardonnay. With one caveat.
It had to be grown in Burgundy.
France's legendary Burgundy region extends from Chablis in the cool northern reaches to Mâcon in its slightly warmer southern edge. Better known for its regal Pinot Noirs from historic places like Gevrey-Chambertin, Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny, Pommard and Volnay, Burgundy is also the home of the world's greatest Chardonnays. They also come from legendary regions: the aforementioned Chablis, Corton, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pouilly-Fuissé and others.
We call them white Burgundies, and they have an uncanny ability to reflect the growing region of their origins better than almost any other grape. For instance, the cool climate and decomposed oyster shell soils of Chablis produce a tangier Chardonnay that is almost saline and is a natural seafood accompaniment. By contrast, the statuesque, noble Chardonnays from Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet produce rich, warmly flavored, viscous white wines that revel in luxurious textures and complex flavors that simply haunt the soul.
The actual material of white Burgundy (with few minor exceptions) is the Chardonnay grape, a variety with a DNA connection to Pinot Noir that appeared after the Middle Ages, nurtured by Cistercian monks. With the exception of the whites of Chablis, white Burgundies took a back seat to Burgundy's prestigious red wines, which became the favorites of the Dukes of Burgundy, but have gained in popularity and recognition over the past century.
In the 1960s, wine writer and importer Frank Schoonmaker noted that the wines of Burgundy have always and will always be rare due to the limited size of the region. "With a handful of exceptions—Chablis, perhaps Pouilly-Fuissé…all of the wines that have made Burgundy's international and enduring fame come from one extraordinary strip of hillside vines. This, the 'Côte d'Or,' or 'Golden Slope,' extends from near Dijon to well south of Beaune," he wrote, "and all of them carry either the name of the commune, or township, from which they come or the name of some specific vineyard plot which produced them."
Like the reds, white Burgundies are subject to a precise classification system that ranks vineyard sites by quality: Bourgogne (usually the flatter sites), Village wines (Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chablis), Premier Cru vineyards (fine hillside plots) and Grand Cru vineyards, the rarest, very best and most expensive white wine vineyards in the world.
There are just seven Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis, and two regions in the Côte d'Or—Corton mountain and the vineyards of Montrachet—where white wines achieve Grand Cru status.
Most of the great white Burgundies are found in the Côtes de Beaune part of the Côte d'Or and in Chablis, although very fine whites can also come from the Côtes Chalonnaise (Rully, Mercurey, Montagny) and Mâconnais (Saint-Veran, Pouilly-Fuissé). Each region is worthy of exploration.
I could go on about micro-climates and clay and limestone soils, but nothing I write will prepare you for the thrills that await when you pull the cork and savor a white Burgundy, no matter where it comes from.
To begin your white Burgundy journey, I recommend selecting wines from specific regions and focusing on them for awhile before moving on to the next region. If you choose to start in Chablis, try Petit Chablis, then village Chablis before moving on to the rarer and more expensive Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines.
In the Mâconnaise, try wines labeled Mâcon, and Mâcon-Villages before sampling the wines of Saint-Veran and Pouilly-Fuissé. In the Chalonnaise, try the village wines before the premier crus. And in the Côte d'Or, explore the Bourgogne blanc of good producers before moving on to their village and Premier Cru wines. Not only will you be saving money, you will also establish a baseline on which to compare the richer classifications.
Always remember that paying more money doesn't guarantee more satisfaction. That only comes from personal experience, and you may be pleasantly surprised when you encounter lesser-priced wines you enjoy more (and more often) than, say Grand Crus. This has happened to me quite often.
And of course, if you have the opportunity to attend a good white Burgundy tasting where you can try out several examples and compare them side-by-side, even better. We've got limited seating remaining on our next one taking place this Friday, February 14th, 2026.
Here are a few white Burgundies I'm enthused about now:
2024 Maison Champy Chablis – $35.99
We're happy to bring back this attractive Chablis from a traditional Côte d'Or producer from a house founded in 1720. The grapes from this wine are purchased for the portfolio, and everything went right here. With a terrific aroma, it is a very pretty wine, balanced with a decent amount of Chablisienne minerality, but not bread-doughy or overly chalky. We'll be drinking this charmer often.
2022 Jean Loron Macon-Villages "La Crochette" – $21.99
Those white Burgundy fans who love the no-oak Macon-Charnay from Manciat-Poncet will also love this charming white from Jean Loran. Made from grapes in two vineyards, and vinified in stainless steel, this balanced, fresh, light-to-medium bodied, easy-to-drink bargain will be delightful for spring and summer quaffing. Heck, drink it all year long!
2022 Manoir du Capucin Pouilly-Fuissé "Sensation" – $36.99
We've carried multiple vintages of Manoir du Capucin's "Sensation" bottling (They also offer a Premier cru Pouilly-Fuissé), and this vintage is a beauty. The aroma is a delight, gorgeous perfumed bright, un-oaked Chardonnay. In the mouth, there is tempered fruit, with its minerals way in the background. Impeccable wine, pretty and unforced. It could be mistaken for something a lot more expensive.
2023 Philippe Bouzereau Bourgogne Blanc – $36.99
We are smitten with the white Burgundies of Philippe Bouzereau, especially the estate's wines from Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. This is the introductory-level white, which I would happily gift to anyone wanting to dip their toe into the white wines of Burgundy. The aroma is simply lovely, drawing one in, offering a whisp of floral character. In the mouth, it is equally lovely, balanced, with shimmering Chardonnay fruit showcased in a medium-bodied wine. This is sure to be a favorite of many of our customers.
2022 Domaine de Montille Bourgogne Blanc "Le Clos du Chateau" – $44.99
100% Chardonnay from the walled vineyard right next to the Château right across the street from appellation Puligny-Montrachet, this over-achieving Bourgogne Blanc is stellar year in and year out.
2022 Domaine Bader-Mimeur Chassagne Montrachet – $83.99
One sip and we bought all our importer had—which wasn't much. In these days of soaring prices for pedigree white Burgundy, it's hard not to jump on this thoroughly enjoyable wine at the price offered. The family that owns this estate has roots going back to the 1700s, and though they sold off the manor house due to a family dispute, the current owners kept 95% of their vines. Aged 15 months in used oak, it is a lovely wine—clean, balanced and true to its appellation. Some grip in the structure with great balance. This shimmering wine has a satisfying, lasting finish.
2023 Domaine P & L Borgeot Chassagne-Montrachet Vieille Vignes – $95.99
Most of our small importers sell out of village white Chassagne as soon as they hit their warehouses. We were lucky to acquire a few bottles of the old-vine white from Borgeot, a delightful, well-made Chassagne with excellent balance and subtle oak notes.
2023 Domaine P & L Borgeot Puligny-Montrachet "Les Grands Champs" – $94.99
This is a lieu dit, a distinctive vineyard that is not classified as premier cru. It's a subtle wine, sporting a light straw color, subtle oak nuances in the aroma, and equally subtle flavors with just enough fruit to offer an elegant aftertaste. A delicate personality.
2023 Philippe Bouzereau Meursault "Clos de la Croix Noire" – $99.99
A gorgeous, almost ethereal Meursault only eclipsed by its premier cru stablemates from Porouzots and Genevrieres. It is becoming harder and harder to obtain village Meursaults of this quality at any price. This is a classy, very subtle Meursault, with a little oak and spice in the restrained aroma that transmits to the flavor. Neither assertive fruit-dominated nor oaky, this is on the delicate, lighter side, but there is strength lurking in there. A wine of finesse.