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24 Jun 2024 | Jeremy Dugan

KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR THE 2023s

Typically, one of the first inquires I have when I’m talking to a Winemaker is “How is your upcoming vintage looking?” Sadly, for the past handful of years, the news wasn’t always good. Whether it was due to drought, fires, random cold snaps, or just bad luck like an earthquake destroying everything resting in barrels, Winemakers would be optimistic, but also realistic about what they were working on. But it looks like the 2023 vintage is a complete 180 from the last few years.

Since the last quarter of 2023 through this year, when I ask Winemakers “How was the 2023 vintage for you?”, everyone, from up the coast to South Africa, has responded “Great, one of my best vintages!” Andrew Jones of Filed Recordings, Tara Gomez of Camins 2 Dreams, Tinashe Nyamudoka of Kumusha and Terah Bajjalieh of Terah Wine Co., come to mind because they are the most recent Winemakers I have spoken to. All three of these individuals, along with others from around the world have been beyond excited with what will be and what has been bottled from the 2023 vintage. But what makes the 2023 vintage standout from the last few years?

2023 was one of the first years in a long time that the state of California got enough rain. Meaning less drought and less fires that spanned across long sections of the state. In places like France and other parts of Europe, there weren’t any random blizzard hitting right as the buds of the vines are breaking or right before time to pick the grapes. Happy, healthy grapes lead to happy Winemakers, and the grapes from 2023 were delighted. So, keep your eyes out for the 2023 vintage of your favorite wines, it could be the best you’ve had in a while. Here are some 2023s currently available from my department.

2023 Giornata Orangotango, Paso Robles.

While they do not say specifically which white varieties are used for the wine, given Giornata grows 5 white grapes, you can assume all are used for the Orangotango. The first sip reminds me of biting into a peach and getting some tannins from the skin. This dries the palate a bit before notes of honey dipped apricots coats your tastebuds. Soft sweet herbs (basil and light mint) pair with light minerality to create a refreshing profile.

2023 Kumusha Wild Mutupo Dry Muscat, Slanghoek, South Africa.

Mutupo is the Shona word for “totem”. Most tribes/clans in Zimbabwe have a Mutupo animal, kind of like a crest in European families. Very floral on the nose, which does transfer to the palate. Floral jasmine flavors hit the palate first along with balanced acidity. Soft white peach fruit pairs with dried basil. Just a very clean, straight forward white wine, begging to be paired with seafood.

2023 Terah Wine Co. Rose, Paicines, CA.

A blend of Syrah (40%) and Grenache (60%), coming from the Paicines Vineyard. This wine starts with some of tannins that taste more like peach skins than anything else. As the tannins lighten up, notes of guava and peach pulp coat the palate. Vibrant minerality pops and brings out soft candied peach flavors on the finish.

2023 Frenchtown Farms Quail Run, Sierra Foothills.

A 50/50 blend of cinsault and counoise, this wine is soft but expressive. Coco nibs, cherries and blackberries up front, the coco nibs bring a slight drying/tannic profile to the wine. Hints of strawberries and figs on the finish add a little acidity and more richness.

2023 Jolie-Laide Glou d’Etat, California.

A blend of 36% Valdiguie, 22% Mourvedre, 18% Cinsault, 16% Grenache and 8% “other”. While there is a bright profile to the wine, there are also tannins that help build the structure of the wine. Rich notes of plums and hints of figs coat the palate before subtle, but noticeable, tannins dry the mid-palate. More fruit does come out on the finish, in the form on ripe strawberries. You might consider chilling this red wine down if you’re looking to minimize the tannic characteristics.

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