Comtes Lafon 2022 Volnay-Champans 1er Cru, Burgundy

"The 2022 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru was completely de-stemmed like the Clos des Chênes and underwent a maximum of three punch-downs. It is matured in 25% new oak. There is a very small reduction on the nose, though that does not disguise the fruit intensity here: black cherries, black plum and crushed violet. The palate is ripe and sexy on the entry, with satin-textured black and blueberry layers. One sample from a new barrel was too oaky, another from a used more expressive with almost sultry red fruit, rose petal and sous-bois. Fans out wonderfully towards the finish. Classy, but it will require some time."--Neal Martin, Vinous