Domaine Christophe Semaska 2023 Condrieu "Lys D'Or", Rhone Valley

Condrieu, the tiny growing region near Côte Rotie is the original home of the global phenomenon Viognier, which was nearly extinct until American winemakers discovered and made their versions in the 1980s and 1990s.  This, in turn, revived interest in Condrieu, so that current plantings are estimated at 420 to 540 acres, up from 57 acres in the 1980s.  Also spotlighted by Robert Parker, the top producers of Condrieu began making intensely perfumed, potent wines from Viognier which were impressive everywhere but the table because of their assertiveness.  It seems that the current styles in vogue have pulled way back in intensity to reveal wines of great beauty, and the Lys d’Or from Domaine Christophe Semaska is a prime example.

Domaine Christophe Semaska is located in Ampuis, the Cote-Rotie town.  With a small holding in Condrieu, the estate has created a medium straw-colored wine with a lovely perfume, a real treat for le nez.  The flavor is equally lovely, with a hint of peach in the middle.  It avoids the punch of its predecessors, with a gorgeous persistence of flavor that can’t be praised enough.  Using all native yeasts and aged in barrel, this is one of the mightiest, most beautiful Condrieus I’ve encountered.